I want to go over the importance of NOT over obsessing over comedogenic ingredients.
Yes, it’s important to eliminate pore-cloggers from your regimen when you are trying to clear, however, everyone’s skin is different. Meaning, a product or ingredient that affects someone’s skin adversely doesn’t mean it will affect you in that same way. Two things to consider, how many pore-cloggers are in the product & how close up or far down the pore-cloggers are listed on the ingredient label.
I also like to remind people, that I am not a cosmetic chemist. We can’t assume that it’s this simple. Formulations are unique and ingredients are too. Ingredients can have a compounded effect, good or bad, so keep that in mind.
I have been in this industry for 11 years and I have seen clients clear with random one off products that have pore cloggers. I truly believe that formulation matters and also skin types are all different.
At the end of the day, I’d rather you obsess over food labels for hidden sugar, soy, dairy, and whey rather than pore cloggers in skincare. Acne is flared by inflammation in your body and food impacts that daily.
Beware of…
Natural Oils
Regardless of what you may see marketed out there on the internet, natural oils can be very clogging for the acne-prone skin type. Coconut Oil and Cocoa Butter which are found in many “organic” skincare lines can be VERY problematic for the acne-prone. Some oils may be “mildly” comedogenic (jojoba, olive, & lanolin) but if they are formulated with other comedogenic ingredients, this can make these become more clogging. So sometimes it’s not about the ingredient alone, but more about what it’s formulated with. if products have multiple pore-clogging ingredients within the formula, this screams clogging. If a pore-clogging ingredient is one of the first few ingredients listed on the label, this means there is a higher amount of that ingredient within the formula. Brands that I see a lot of these pore cloggers in are Beauty Counter, Epionce, Eminence, Sunday Riley, just to name a few.
Bar Soaps
In my opinion, bar soaps can leave a soap residue on the skin which can lead to clogging your pores. Especially, bar soaps that are “moisturizing” stay away from these. Also, bar soaps have a higher PH than face wash which can leave your skin dehydrated. This can then cause an over-production of oil and also clogging. These reasons along with added dyes and scents can leave the skin irritated.
Food Grade Products
If you can eat it in the kitchen or use it to bake/cook food, DO NOT PUT IT ON YOUR FACE. Food grade products are not intended to penetrate the skin. This means that it literally sits on the surface of your skin which can lead to clogging or irritation.
Over The Counter or Pharmaceutical Prescriptions for Acne
Many prescriptions and over-the-counter “acne” products have pore-clogging ingredients within the formula. Prescription products like Retin-A have pore-clogging ingredients, this can be a problem if you are consistently breaking out while devoted to your topical. Don’t believe everything you see on the label. Mass-produced products for the shelves of Target are formulated with cheap ingredients and are not as thoughtful with keeping non-comedogenic ingredients out of the formula. This reflects in the cost of the product.
When searching for these, they need to be listed in the exact spelling.
Example: Stearic Acid and Stearic Acid Tea are not the same ingredients.
Example of bad products for acne prone skin
ILIA Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 40
Ingredients: Aqua/Water/Eau, Squalane*, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Propanediol, Shea Butter, Ethyl Esters, Isoamyl Laurate*, Isopropyl Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, Sodium Chloride, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Silica, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Bisabolol, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Phenylpropanol, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Polyhydroxystearic Acid. May Contain/Peut Contenir (±): CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide). *Organic Ingredients
My Reasoning: There are 3 pore cloggers listed in the top half of the ingredients. If the pore clogging ingredients are listed close to the top, the more amount of that ingredient is in the formulation.
ILIA True Skin Serum Foundation
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Coconut Alkanes, Caprylyl Methicone, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinloleate, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Boron Nitride, Dimethicone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Hull Powder, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Gluconolactone, Glycerin, Isopentyldiol, Sodium Chloride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Rosa Moschata Seed Oil*, Sclerocarya Birrea (Marula) Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*, Squalane, Tocopherol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Pentylene Glycol, Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Potassium Sorbate, Calcium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Flower/Leaf Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Bisabolol. May Contain/Peut Contenir [+/-: Titanium Dioxide (Ci 77891), Iron Oxides (Ci 77491, Ci 77492, Ci 77499)].
My Reasoning: Coconut Alkanes is the SECOND ingredient listed. This means that there is A LOT of coconut alkanes in the formulation. Also, 4 natural oils that are mildly comedogenic are listed halfway down. These compounded with coconut alkanes make pore clogging a greater chance.
This is just a guideline for eliminating road blocks on your way to clear skin. When in doubt, please contact me!
Sources:
Face Reality Acne Clinic
Skincarisma.com
